How Paul Tazewell Brought the Fantastical Costumes of Wicked to Life
When it comes to costume design, few names resonate as loudly as Paul Tazewell. With a career spanning over three decades, Tazewell has worked on a dynamic array of Broadway, film, and television projects.
From the vibrant, history-making costumes of Hamilton to the breathtaking designs in West Side Story (for which he made history as the first Black man nominated for an Academy Award for Best Costume Design), Tazewell has become a master at blending history, emotion, and the visual narrative of costume.
His latest triumph? Designing the costumes for Wicked, the highly anticipated film directed by Jon M. Chu, which brings the beloved prequel to The Wizard of Oz to the big screen.
The film, based on Gregory Maguire's novel, explores the complex friendship between Elphaba (Cynthia Erivo), the misunderstood Wicked Witch of the West, and Glinda (Ariana Grande), the bubbly Good Witch. As these characters embark on an emotional journey, Tazewell's costumes become an essential part of their transformation. His designs not only reflect their personal growth, but also subtly communicate the deeper themes of acceptance, identity, and the clash between the individual and societal expectations.
Crafting New Yet Timeless Designs
Tazewell’s approach to designing the costumes for Wicked was all about combining classic elements with a modern twist. Inspired by the original 1939 *Wizard of Oz* and the vivid technicolor dreamscapes that defined it, Tazewell aimed to evoke a sense of magic and wonder while still staying grounded in the emotional core of the story. For instance, when creating the look for Glinda, he drew inspiration from Billie Burke's iconic portrayal of the Good Witch in the 1939 film. But rather than simply replicating her style, Tazewell reimagined the fairy princess silhouette with a contemporary lens, using rich fabrics, intricate beading, and dramatic volumes to elevate the character's whimsical, yet regal look. A standout moment comes when Ariana Grande's Glinda floats down in her bubble, wearing a show-stopping pink dress that speaks to both the 1930s and a fantastical modern interpretation.
For Elphaba, Tazewell delved into a darker, more grounded aesthetic, using nature as a core inspiration. Elphaba’s costumes evolve alongside her character, with each piece reflecting her growing confidence and eventual acceptance of her powers. One of the most striking designs is a gown she wears to the Oz Dust Ball, which takes inspiration from the intricate underside of mushrooms, with swirling pleats that feel both organic and mystical. Tazewell also incorporated subtle nods to nature throughout Elphaba’s look, like the embroidered Fiddlehead Fern on her bodice, which adds a deeper layer of meaning to the character's connection to the natural world.
A Collaborative Vision
Tazewell’s work on Wicked was deeply collaborative, particularly with the two lead actresses, Cynthia Erivo and Ariana Grande. According to Tazewell, the costume process was all about highlighting the emotional arcs of Elphaba and Glinda. For Erivo's Elphaba, the designer wanted to underscore the character’s evolution, ensuring her costumes reflected her journey from an outcast to a woman in control of her destiny.
The idea of power and self-empowerment played a major role in designing her look, with pieces like the dramatic cape at the end of the film symbolizing Elphaba's full embrace of her identity. Tazewell also made sure to honor Cynthia's personal style and cultural background, particularly through elements like microbraids and coffin nails, which Erivo chose to incorporate into her character’s look. These small, personal touches were crucial for grounding Elphaba’s appearance in her cultural heritage and providing a unique, authentic spin on the character.
For Ariana Grande’s Glinda, Tazewell focused on creating costumes that emphasized her character’s sweet, bubbly innocence while also showcasing her own growth throughout the story. The pink bubble dress, inspired by the whimsical gowns of the 1930s, became an iconic moment in the film, with Tazewell using the Fibonacci spiral to create a sense of buoyancy and lightness in the fabric. The dress is more than just pretty — it’s a reflection of Glinda’s personality and her gradual development into a courageous leader, empowered by her deepening friendship with Elphaba.
Attention to Detail
Tazewell’s attention to detail is evident in every corner of Wicked. He created individualistic uniforms for the students at Shiz University, drawing inspiration from classic boarding school looks but with enough variation to let each character’s personality shine through. For Glinda, who embraces a more refined, fashionable style, Tazewell designed a pink-and-pearl-gray pinstripe suit that perfectly encapsulated her mix of girlish charm and sophistication. Elphaba’s darker, more somber palette reflected her outsider status, setting her apart visually from the other students.
One of the most exciting aspects of the costume design for Wicked was the creation of Emerald City. Tazewell pulled from his love of grand cities like New York and Paris to create a rich, bustling environment for the film's climactic sequences. The varied shades of green used in the Emerald City costumes, from rich, deep hues to lighter, almost ethereal tones, were designed to immerse the audience in the opulence and wonder of this magical metropolis.
Designing for the Masses
Beyond the glitz and glamour of the film, Tazewell also took his vision to the commercial world with a Wicked clothing collection for Target. The capsule collection translates elements of the film’s fantastical costumes into wearable, everyday pieces that still capture the magic of Wicked. Tazewell was careful to design pieces that were both accessible and reflective of the film’s color palette and style. From dark greens reminiscent of Elphaba to the pinks and pastel shades that characterize Glinda's wardrobe, the collection brings a bit of Wicked's magic into the real world — and lets fans wear a piece of the fantasy.
Paul Tazewell’s work on Wicked is a testament to his unmatched ability to tell a story through fashion. With each stitch and seam, he has crafted costumes that are as emotionally charged as they are visually stunning, giving Wicked's iconic characters — and the world they inhabit — a new life on screen.
From the bold colors of Emerald City to the intricate details of Glinda and Elphaba’s costumes, Tazewell’s designs are more than just clothing; they are integral to the storytelling, helping to shape the emotional and narrative arcs of two of the most beloved characters in modern fantasy.
As Wicked prepares to enchant audiences worldwide, it’s clear that Paul Tazewell has once again woven his magic into the fabric of cinematic history.
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